Ive been looking somewhere on here if someone shows them rebuilding their truck with SFA by using leaf springs in the front, i want to figure out for sure if i want to go with coils or leafs...so if anyone knows if there is and where thanks

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-Patrick-
1996 Sonoma, SAS = Waggy front and Passport rear D44, 4.30's, Trac Lok front Yukon Power Lok rear, manual NP241, 35x13R17, Gen III 5.7L & 4L60E

ok...well i was looking for more a step by step of how they did it..but i got a good idea
my next question is:
whats the benifets of each other (going coil or leaf springs)?

Here are two build ups, but usually you can find anyone in the SFA Rigs section and PM them for build up pics. Better yet, find two SFA guys you like that have coils, and two that have leaf springs, and PM all 4 asking the same "what are the benefits?" question. Or just search through the Suspension Swap forum looking for the Coils vs Leafs. Usually someone asks the question, then two SFA guys go at it getting into heavy conversation, then someone with both rigs under their belt chimes in about how any leaf sprung suspension can navigate the same things as a coil sprung suspension does. You just need to figure out which seems easier for YOU to build, which costs less, and what looks better.

Spring Over axle up front
http://mypeoplepc.com/members/voet/billss10/id4.html

Spring Under axle up front
http://mypeoplepc.com/members/voet/tony ... e/id2.html

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-Patrick-
1996 Sonoma, SAS = Waggy front and Passport rear D44, 4.30's, Trac Lok front Yukon Power Lok rear, manual NP241, 35x13R17, Gen III 5.7L & 4L60E

ok thanks
now besides ride height, is there a difference of putting the axle under or above the leaf springs?

Yes, there are an assortment of pros and cons for both setups. I prefer spring over with as flat a spring as possible. But its all in what you want the suspension to do really.

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"Laziness is nothing more than the habit of resting before you get tired."
D30HP=dana/spicer axle rated to handle 30 horsepower.

well of right now its still my daily driving truck. i figured going leaf springs might be better for that reason, and ive never gone extream offroading before where i think coils would be neccesary but i like the look of the coils better. but i need to be more logical and do what will work better for me.

forgot to say...but if im just completly wrong about leafs being better for daily driving please let me know
thanks

Some F350's are leaf sprung, other F350's are coil sprung. Same goes with many stock trucks from the factory. How it rides and performs as a daily will be 100% up to you to figure out the geometry. Both setups have the ability to be great dailys. I don't find it a coincidence though, that a great riding suspension, whether coil sprung or leaf sprung, will have the same components that make the ride daily drivable. I'm talking about pan hard bars (track bars is another name), sway bars, shocks calculated for the correct load, and possibly steering stabilizers. Geometry plays a big part in the ride feel, as well as the correct spring rate, whether that be from a coil or a leaf.

Take for example my truck. Leaf sprung. I drive it daily, it feels great, I couldn't ask for better. Take for example MudOnTheTireS10. Coil sprung. He drives it daily, only has vibrations at high speeds because of his aggressive 37's (I have All-Terrains that are liquid balanced) and still gets in the 16-18mpg range with the V6. He likes coils so much he has considered setting the rear up for coils too, if later on money allows. I'm currently pulling a 14mpg average, 16-18 highway, but I geared my axles for a much more powerful motor so I knew I was in for high and frequent gas bills.

I think leaf springs are easier to design a suspension around than coils. I've only done a leaf sprung suspension, but if I ever do another truck it'll be coil sprung for sure, just so I can get a feel from both sides. I think most on here agree that leafs are easier to figure out, since most went leaf sprung up front.

Any idea on your desired tire size?

_________________
-Patrick-
1996 Sonoma, SAS = Waggy front and Passport rear D44, 4.30's, Trac Lok front Yukon Power Lok rear, manual NP241, 35x13R17, Gen III 5.7L & 4L60E

thanks, i believe im going to go with 33's, maybe a lil bigger.
right now im trying to figure out what would be best for me, and then start figuring out the full details. I know im not going to go with 37's tho LOL, a lil to aggressive for me, for all i do.
and i can imagine leafs being easier..and how this is my first time, and im not a good welder so im going to need to ask my father to help me with that, i think it might better off with leafs.
when i get done i want to be at least another 6inches off the ground not included from the size of the tire size change.
so i guess my next question should be, what is a good leaf to go out and find, and shock to go buy?

I'm happy with the leaf springs I used. Mine I got from suspensionconnection.com and are Ruff Country 3" leaf springs for Chevy 73-87 fronts. They're 48" long which made things difficult in the build since I started with a 2wd, but I'm not a fan of long front springs so I don't regret my decision one bit. They have a spring rate of 325lb and feel great so far. Soft ride, yet have the strength and support for a daily driver that tows often.

Lift height will be determined by 10 or more things, but the main three things are leaf spring arch, front crossmember position and rear shackle design. This includes whether your front axle is positioned spring over axle, or spring under axle. Look back through the SFA rigs section and look at the different leaf sprung builds. Notice some are SUA and some are SOA. Look at the various pics to determine which build seems right for your skills/needs/design idea and final outlook.

Then get back to us and we can go from there.

_________________
-Patrick-
1996 Sonoma, SAS = Waggy front and Passport rear D44, 4.30's, Trac Lok front Yukon Power Lok rear, manual NP241, 35x13R17, Gen III 5.7L & 4L60E

so would it be possible to order a suspension lift kit made for 1973-1987 Chevy/GMC Truck 4x4, then just modify the front to be able to use leaf springs?
here is the one i was looking at: 6" lift
or would i got to much junk parts from the kit that would not be usable out of the kit to make it worth using the kit?

i was reading on the technical article on "How to Swap a Solid Front Axle
into a First Generation S-10" and was wondering how for at least now im just go off-roading on occasions, would it be ok to leave my rear axle on for the time being and just put on a new front axle like a Dana 30???

Looking at what all comes in that kit, and looking at what you wont use, if you added 4 shocks to the kit (for another 158 says suspensionconnection) it will actually cost less to order the parts separate. From the 494.95 special price, you'll only use the front leaf springs and maybe the rear blocks, probably not though for 33's or slightly larger.

Hell ya a Dana 30 is a great axle for 33's, a V6 and an S10's weight. You will then have miss matching bolt patterns, so instead of keeping the rear axle, sell it on Ebay for a few bucks and in return pick up a Ford 8.8. Then you will have matching 5x4.5" bolt patterns, axles very close in width, disc brakes front and rear, and a rear axle strong enough to take on 33's and ask for seconds. Plus the 8.8 is just as easy to find parts for as a Dana 30, and matching the gear ratios is quite easily done. You can find 4.10's from the factory in the 8.8, with a Ford Traction Lok limited slip differential, again from the factory, straight out of the Explorer. This is the route many SAS'ers have gone and I would have too, if I kept a V6. Most of your driving will be in 2wd anyway, so you want your rear axle to be the strong one since it's always in use any time the truck is. The Dana 30 just needs to be strong enough to venture off road once in awhile and be geared to match the rear. 4.10's should be enough for 33's and a 4.3L V6. You can go up to 35's with a Dana 30 and still be "alright" for mild off road use under V6 power. In that case I'd gear up to 4.56's instead.

Most of your suspension parts can be found on Sky Manufacturing's website. Have you figured out whether you want to go spring under axle in the front or spring over? The two links I gave you in my 2nd post of this thread have both examples of a SUA and SOA setup.

_________________
-Patrick-
1996 Sonoma, SAS = Waggy front and Passport rear D44, 4.30's, Trac Lok front Yukon Power Lok rear, manual NP241, 35x13R17, Gen III 5.7L & 4L60E

i am not sure yet, wont are the advantages of each one?